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  1. #391
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    visit-red-300x50PNG
    Quote Originally Posted by real_wiseman
    No, but now that

    you mention it...

  2. #392
    Pheromaniac Sexyredhead's Avatar
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    BTW, on atlas

    cedarwood:

    "Externally fairly non-toxic, can cause local irritation and sensitisation in some people. Only

    used diluted and in moderation. During pregnancy - powerful abortifacient, the use of this oil during pregnancy has

    apparently proved fatal."
    "I have a hammer! I can put things together! I can knock things apart! I can alter my environment at will and make an incredible din all the while! Ah, it's great to be male!"

    --Calvin & Hobbes

  3. #393
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    http://www.aromaweb.com/books/lawless.asp

    Here is a link

    to a great book on essential oils that gives safety infomation as well as the other goodies you want to know.



    Bergaptene free bergamot is available at Liberty Natural Products.

    The amount of cedar used in perfumes is

    very small and in great dilution. Atlas is the one to avoid during pregnancy, but Himalayan is similar. But if I was

    pregnant I would back off on essential oils use unless I could determine something was OK. It's good common

    sense.

    In this thread I have recommended cinnamon leaf over the bark. The bark is for advanced use only, and

    should never be put directly on the skin. For that matter the much gentler leaf oil should also never be used

    straight on the skin.

    If you feel irritation from any oil stop using it.
    Last edited by DrSmellThis; 06-24-2004 at 04:49 PM.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  4. #394
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    It seems that's the book I

    have, but with a different cover...

    // w

  5. #395
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    BTW, SRH: Nice, helpful post!



    In general, safety precautions for EOs are typically a bit overstated, regarding normal use in a diluted

    blend
    (or common cosmetic products), applied to typical perfume application points. Many EO's can be applied

    "neat" (undiluted).

    The citrus oils are pretty safe, but I wouldn't apply a layer of them all over my face and

    then go out in the sun! They are, however good for exfoliating the skin as a healthier, non-depleting alternative to

    the alpha and beta hydroxy acids when diluted appropriately. Aubrey facial cleanser uses them for this purpose, for

    example.

    Some E oils, such as pennyroyal, have been used to induce abortions (though I think they are prety

    "unreliable" for that purpose.). So you definitely have to take their use seriously if you are pregnant.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  6. #396
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    This site has posted some blends that

    are similar to some of the Bath & Body Works stuff, a couple are for perfume

    copies.

    http://www.soapnuts.com/ScentBlends.html

  7. #397
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Thanks, Randa. Coincidentally

    that was already posted in this thread. But it's one of the better recipe links posted.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  8. #398
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    I thought I'd bump this for

    newbies, as there really aren't too many places on the web you can learn about perfuming for free,

    especially natural perfuming, and especially in a give-and-take format (Actually, I've yet to find another good

    place. The one other similar room I stumbled on was very superficial and sort of lame, IMHO.) I just did a web

    search yesterday, and found very little.

    As a result of the search, I did end up talking with Mandy Aftel, the

    author of the excellent text I recommended for folks early in the thread (The Lawler book I recommended just above

    is also excellent.). I hope some of you followed up on that. She and I might be exchanging some information, as she

    is coming to Oregon soon. If so, I'll post a few things about that. She has a new book coming out in September,

    which I'm sure will be good.

    So how are y'all doing? Are you trying any recipes, experimenting with your own

    concoctions, or having any questions about making perfumes?

    If not that's cool too, but it is really

    interesting that so many of us learn to cook, draw things, play music, and have good sex. But when it comes to the

    sense of smell, only a select few explore it creatively at all. This is especially curious when one learns

    how crucially important smell is for all mammalian activity, including primates. We are truly apes in denial.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  9. #399
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Here is an interesting

    encyclopaedia article on perfumery:



    http://1.1911encyclopedia.org/P/PE/PERFUMERY.htm
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  10. #400
    Stranger violetsky's Avatar
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    Default Amouage Gold thoughts

    Well I got

    my Amouage Gold samples just before my trip to Vegas.

    I honestly didn'tlike it when I first sprayed it on...it

    smells like perfumes or some kind of perfume I smelled alot in the 70's and I couldn't quite put my finger on what

    that was but after walking in 105 degrees for hours the smell was pretty good and not at all like it was first

    spray. It's a very strong scent.

    I might fair better at some of the other creations they have.
    there are layers and layers -- you're bottomless, unfathomable. Your clearness is deceptive. You are the thinker who arouses most confusion in me, most doubt, most disturbance. Anais Nin

  11. #401
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    It's pretty heavy, not really a

    hot summer daytime scent, although at night in a fancy casino it would be appropriate if it wasn't too hot. I'd

    probably like it on you regardless! They do have other scents for summer or day wear.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  12. #402
    Phero Enthusiast nonscents's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=DrSmellThis]Here is an

    interesting encyclopaedia article on perfumery:



    http://1.1911encyclopedia.org/P/PE/PERFUMERY.htm[/QU

    OTE]
    Thanks Doc. I learned a lot from that article. Fascinating the way they get the scents into the fats and

    oils.
    The more you sweat in peace, the less you bleed in war.

  13. #403
    Bodhi Satva CptKipling's Avatar
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    Doc,

    After several gift

    buying escapades, it has come to my attention that a blend of Ylang Ylang and Patchouli is popular with a few

    females of the species that I know, and I thought it would be a good idea to make a small batch of a similar

    blend.

    Do you have any ideas for a good ratio?

  14. #404
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    You have to use your nose and

    imagine what you want beforehand. It really depends on the quality of the two oils, as either can be a little

    obnoxious in high concentration if quality is poor. I'd try 2:1 ylang to patchouli first, then adjust. Maybe even

    1:1 or 3:1.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  15. #405
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Post Oud

    Today I'd like to feature

    the essential oil, Oud; or Agarwood. "Oud" is Arabic for "wood". An oud is also a lute-like instrument played

    in the Middle East. In perfuming, though, it refers specifically to a rare, fragrant evergreen tree found in

    Southeast Asia, which doesn't produce its scent unless it's at least 50 years old, and infected with a certain

    fungus. Oud is also used in Japanese incenses and in Chinese medicine.

    At one point oud was talked about a lot

    on the forum, as it is a renowned aphrodisiac. All of the references discussed at that time ended up being for

    synthetic oud oils, unfortnately. It is easily one of the rarest, most expensive, and most precious woods in the

    world! I buy it wholesale for $1.00 per drop. It doesn't really get much cheaper in quantity, either! But it

    needs to be diluted quite a bit anyway to be useful as a perfume.

    It is exquisite and tenacious in smell, and

    can be somewhat of an acquired taste for the Western nose. I absolutely love it, though, so much so that it ended up

    being possibly the most prominent note in Pheros, especially the newer version. It lends a mysterious,

    deep, woodiness. I used only authentic, high-quality, oud essential oil. The rarity and expensiveness of this oil is

    one of the factors that led me to keep the supply of Pheros limited. Rumor has it that there is a bit of oud

    in Amouage as well.

    Oud has figured prominently in meditation use, last rites and funeral rituals over the

    aeons, due to it's connection to the hereafter; specifically, it has been believed to keep a soul connected to

    those on the Earth. Conversely, it is also supposed to connect those on earth with the spirit world. The body of

    Jesus the Nazarean was annointed in oud.

    If you like musky woods, but want to be sure of smelling different than

    anyone else, try some oud! Here is a link to an excellent article written by an oud enthusiast.



    http://www.enfleurage.com/e-articles/aa-agarwood.html

    Last edited by DrSmellThis; 07-30-2004 at 04:48 AM.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  16. #406
    PheroWizard oscar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrSmellThis



    Oud.....
    ........It is easily one of the rarest, most expensive, and most precious woods in the world! I buy it

    wholesale for $1.00 per drop. It doesn't really get much cheaper in quantity, either! But it needs to be

    diluted quite a bit anyway to be useful as a perfume.......

    ......... Rumor has it that there is a bit of oud in

    Amouage as well.
    Doc,

    Paying $1.00 per drop seems pretty expensive, especially if that's the

    WHOLESALE price!
    But put into context of what Amouage gets for their

    Oudh al Khulood on the Amouage Attars page at ParfumsRaffy

    a buck a drop sounds like a bargain!

    Oscar

  17. #407
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Nice post, Oscar -- $1600.00 for

    9 ml!!! I'd forgotten how expensive their Oud was.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  18. #408
    Bodhi Satva CptKipling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrSmellThis
    You have to

    use your nose and imagine what you want beforehand. It really depends on the quality of the two oils, as either can

    be a little obnoxious in high concentration if quality is poor. I'd try 2:1 ylang to patchouli first, then adjust.

    Maybe even 1:1 or 3:1.
    Thanks again Doc

  19. #409
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Post An advanced perfuming tip

    You're

    welcome!

    ***
    As promised, I'm going to let people in on an advanced secret of professional perfuming; one

    that you probably won't read about in books, using my own perfume as an example.

    I'm sitting here smelling

    Pheros on the back of my hand. I'm happy the oud came out to be so prominent, as I thought I was going to go

    broke before I could get it to smell like oud, or have a prominent oud note. Maybe I should have called it

    "Oudi"! As it turns out, you could get away with calling it an oud perfume, and yet it's not anything like

    $1600.00 for 9ml! It's like 1/50 of that price.

    How could this be?!

    Usually, when some scent is cheaper

    than another, outrageously priced scent that's supposed to be the same thing, it's because a synthetic version was

    used in the cheaper one. But in this case, I used only pure, high quality oud essential oil -- the best I'd ever

    smelled, at a dollar per drop; and no artificial oud.

    What happened is that the other 149 ingredients enhanced

    the oud, fixated it, and brought it out! It's funny how perfuming can work that way. For instance, it turned out

    that, since oud has so many natural musk notes, the real musk just magnified it. The sandalwood did the same thing,

    magnifying the oud's woody notes.

    Anyway, this is a good advanced lesson in perfuming, IMHO; as I learned that

    whenever you want a perfume to smell like some particular thing (say, Rose), you need to use the other things in the

    perfume to "protect, articulate and enhance" the thing you want. In the case of a rose perfume, for example, it's

    not enough to just make it from rose oil! It won't smell like a rose! Instead, you think about the various aspects

    of rose, and find other things to enhance and recreate those aspects. Only in this way can you get it to smell like

    a real rose without using a ton of synthetic chemicals.

    So as a learning exercise, I am asking people to

    smell something they like, and imagine what other smells might be contained in it, or suggested by it!

    If

    people want to try applying this principle in creating a perfume, check out the recipes I posted in this thread for

    "Here Smell Me" and the jasmine perfume, both of which incorporated this kind of thinking!

    Good luck in your

    mixing!
    Last edited by DrSmellThis; 08-18-2004 at 02:53 PM.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  20. #410
    Bodhi Satva CptKipling's Avatar
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    Hi Doc,

    Just wanted to give

    this thread a little bump and ask a question...



    I am playing around with a Ylang Ylang, Patchouli and

    Lavendar, I haven't actually mixed anything yet, I have just been getting a feel for the oils. Using my wrist as a

    palette with an 8% dilution, I have guesstimated that a good ratio is 2:3:1, give or take. By good I mean it smells

    like the blend I am trying to recreate. However, my ambition has gotten the better of me and I have decided to try

    and make a woman's fragrance, for a gift (or three, depending on how far I can stretch it). I might also add it too

    an uncented bath mixture, for a little variety (that 2:3:1 ratio would smell great for that purpose as it is).



    My question is, could I create something like the oriental mix early in this thread, but alter it and base it on

    my blend? I am gunning for a slightly fruity/citrusy top, oriental middle, and woody/earthy base.

    I *could* have

    the following oils:

    Cedar
    Sandalwood
    myrrh
    cinnamon
    benzoin
    anise
    valerian
    orange


    Bergamot
    Lemon
    Jasmin


    Any thoughts?
    CptKipling

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  21. #411
    Bodhi Satva CptKipling's Avatar
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    bumpety
    CptKipling

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  22. #412
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Cool

    Let's just work with virtually

    everything you have, for the hell of it. I'll call this:

    Him a Lay Ya


    5 Lemon
    1 Pine
    8

    orange

    8 Bergamot
    5 Neroli
    2 Rose

    Geranium

    3 lavender
    4 Ylang Ylang
    7

    Jasmine

    3 Clary Sage
    1 cinnamon
    2

    anise

    5 benzoin
    1 Labdanum
    3

    Sandalwood

    1 Patchouli
    2 Frankincense
    1

    myrrh

    1 valerian

    Instructions: I know you are in a hurry, so I'll

    accelerate the maturation part to the max. Get a small, clean, sterile bottle with a lid (atomizer lid is OK) and

    add 5 drops of everclear. Then combine these in strict reverse order, starting from the bottom of the list.

    Shake the bottom of the bottle well from side to side with small, rapid shakes after each addition. Pay close

    attention to what each new ingredient does, so if you want to add a touch more of something later you'll

    have the knowledge to do so. Let sit for 24 hours sealed, then mix with 100 more drops of everclear. Shake well.

    Tell your friend to shake the bottle 2x/day, and add 20% more filtered or distilled water to it if she wants,

    only after a week of maturation though, to mellow it out and extend it. You may double or triple the recipe

    if desired to make a larger quantity; or to get your atomizer bottle to be 4/5 full.

    Enjoy!!
    Last edited by DrSmellThis; 10-06-2004 at 01:08 PM.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  23. #413
    Bodhi Satva CptKipling's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot Doc, that's great



    I've actually got a few more oils on the way, inclding:

    Neroli (10% in jojoba) ( the absolute is

    expensive!)
    Clary Sage
    Frankincense
    Rose Geranium
    Labdanum
    Pine
    Eucalyptus

    ...but they can just sit on the

    side for this brew (unless there is an obvious use for one or two).

    I'm going to use jojoba as a base, do I

    need to do anything different? And I'm assuming that because my Jasmin is a 10% (in jojoba again) then I just x10

    the Jasmin drops...? Do I reduce the amount of jojoba that I add because of this? I will end up with the equivalent

    of 108 drops of jojoba before I've even started adding any carrier.

    Oh, and what is the best point to add some

    pheros?

    Thanks again Doc, muchly appreciated

    I'll let you know how it goes.
    CptKipling

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  24. #414
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Ok, I just modified the mix to

    contain all your oils except cedar and eucalyptus. Yep, you have to multiply the jasmine by 10 if 10%, and then

    account for the extra jojoba that was in the jasmine. You can substitute jojoba for the everclear 1:1. That is your

    carrier. I'd add the pheromones last, after letting it sit and just before shipping it off. Pheromones are

    essentially calculated as carrier too. The problem is the water in them will interfere in the maturation process. So

    ideally you'd use CS mones or oil-based -mones, to minimize the water; and let it mature a bit before adding

    them.

    Have fun and good luck!
    Last edited by DrSmellThis; 10-05-2004 at 08:33 PM.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  25. #415
    Bodhi Satva CptKipling's Avatar
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    Thanks for the time and effort

    Doc
    CptKipling

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  26. #416
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    You're welcome, Kip. Have you

    started yet? Please do let us know the results, and any other issues that arise. Thanks in advance.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  27. #417
    Bodhi Satva CptKipling's Avatar
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    No not yet, I'm still waiting

    for some of the EO's, including most of the base notes so I can't even start

    The delay has both good

    and bad connotations; a) it's increasing the tension and excitment, and b) it's increasing the tension and

    excitment, for me to ultimately mess it up

    CptKipling

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  28. #418
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    For those curious, the oils in

    Him-a-lay-ya are grouped according to the type of note, from top to middle to bottom.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

  29. #419
    Sadhu bjf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrSmellThis
    Let's just work

    with virtually everything you have, for the hell of it. I'll call this:

    Him a Lay Ya


    5 Lemon
    1 Pine
    8

    orange

    8 Bergamot
    5 Neroli
    2 Rose

    Geranium

    3 lavender
    4 Ylang Ylang
    7

    Jasmine

    3 Clary Sage
    1 cinnamon
    2

    anise

    5 benzoin
    1 Labdanum
    3

    Sandalwood

    1 Patchouli
    2 Frankincense
    1

    myrrh

    1 valerian

    Instructions: I know you are in a hurry, so I'll

    accelerate the maturation part to the max. Get a small, clean, sterile bottle with a lid (atomizer lid is OK) and

    add 5 drops of everclear. Then combine these in strict reverse order, starting from the bottom of the list.

    Shake the bottom of the bottle well from side to side with small, rapid shakes after each addition. Pay close

    attention to what each new ingredient does, so if you want to add a touch more of something later you'll

    have the knowledge to do so. Let sit for 24 hours sealed, then mix with 100 more drops of everclear. Shake well.

    Tell your friend to shake the bottle 2x/day, and add 20% more filtered or distilled water to it if she wants,

    only after a week of maturation though, to mellow it out and extend it. You may double or triple the recipe

    if desired to make a larger quantity; or to get your atomizer bottle to be 4/5 full.



    Enjoy!!
    DST, I noticed that the top notices are used in significantly higher quantity than the

    base notes. Can you break down the general-rule-of-thumb percentages that perfumers use for the base, middle and top

    notes?

    Thanks

  30. #420
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjf
    DST, I noticed that

    the top notices are used in significantly higher quantity than the base notes. Can you break down the

    general-rule-of-thumb percentages that perfumers use for the base, middle and top notes?

    Thanks
    It

    varies. Some have mentioned 3:2:1, top to bottom, but it depends on the oils and desired effect. It's discussed

    earlier in this thread, too.
    DrSmellThis (creator of P H E R O S)

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