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  1. #1
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Perfuming Basics

    visit-red-300x50PNG
    Hi ladies and

    germs,

    Thought I\'d start a thread here on pretty smelly things, hang out, practice ballet, and allow my

    sensitive, feminine side to roam freely. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]You can\'t tell, but

    right now I\'m wearing groovy, pin striped pants, a navy blue button down shirt, a lavender tie, suede boots, and

    have neatly parted my hair. I took a bath earlier with my armada of plastic boats, and am ready to upload good

    vibes. I smell like a fresh bottle of Coca-C [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif[/img]la. I am writing with an

    audible English accent, and just brushed my teeth last month. See? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

    (I hope no one reading this is actually from England!)

    My, you are a handsome and bright eyed class!


    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif[/img]
    Ahem, well

    we\'d better get started.

    Basic things thing to know about perfuming:

    1. They\'re made with

    EO\'s, a carrier, and sometimes synthetic or animal products.

    2. You mix things and strive for complete

    harmony among ingredients.

    3. It works well to think of three kinds of \'notes\': Bass, heart (When

    I\'m not feeling sensitive and feminine, I call them \"MIDDLE NOTES\", and I make the quote signs with my

    fingers, just like Austin Powers), and top notes. These distinctions are based on rates of evaporation. Where an oil

    falls depends on context. Some are more versatile than others, especially when they are more complex oils. It\'s

    good to let go of rules and make your own minds up here, though studying books on perfuming and aromatherapy is also

    good.

    4. As my \'text\', I\'m going to recommend \'Essence and Alchemy\', by Mandy Aftel (2001;

    North Point Press, New York) due to the pretty naked woman on the cover. Ooops, I forgot my \"Sensitive New

    Millenium Guy\" mantra.

    5. To get you started, here is a simple but very nice ladies\' perfume recipe,

    which I\'ll call, \"Here, Smell Me!\" (quotes provided by Austin Powers). Feel free to vary proportions. You all

    are going to smell so nice!

    Vetiver: 2 drops
    Rose: 2 drops (If rose is too expensive, you can try lavender

    or ylang-ylang).
    Clary Sage: 1 drop
    Lemon or Geranium: 4 drops (If you use Ylang, substitute orange

    here)
    40 drops jojoba oil, or to taste.

    Try to add the oils in the order indicated to a little bottle

    (like a flower essence bottle) and let sit for one day, shaking at least three times.

    So have at it! Those

    who want to learn at this time should try the formula. I\'ll be around, but I never take questions unless I\'m

    asked.

    Next week, Coca-Cola perfume! I\'m off for a beauty rest. All this sensitivity is a bit

    draining.

  2. #2
    Pheromaniac Sexyredhead's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    Way cool!

    I\'ll give that mix a try. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

    Any other tips for us?

  3. #3
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    Thank you so much!

    This will be the first mix I try once my oils arrive. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

    What are

    some of the synthetic\'s we should have on hand?

  4. #4
    Carpal Tunnel Whitehall's Avatar
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    Default Next task

    OK, Bubba, now whip up

    something to cover the aroma of bullsh*t.

  5. #5
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    OK. Per

    TAMEPP\'s request, I will change next week\'s perfume to \"Hay.\"

    For our purposes here, synthetics can

    include the SP oils (jasmine, juniper, musk, and amber) and, of course, pheromones.

  6. #6
    Phero Pharaoh
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    PLEEZE, Oh PLEEEZ, DR!

    Do you have a nice oriental blend recipe?

    Thx!

  7. #7
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    Yes, I do.

  8. #8
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    Just teasing!

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

    OK, before I go

    any further, why doesn\'t everyone tell me what oils you have, or will have shortly. I don\'t want to recommend

    too many expensive things no one has.

  9. #9
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    Incidentally, if

    you add Everclear instead of jojoba to the above recipe, double or triple the strength, and then put it in a bottle

    of edge, you can make your own, woman\'s version of Edge Essentials, with a scent very similar to the guys\'

    \"Heat\", but feminized.

  10. #10
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    Here is my list.

    Everything should be arriving any day...

    Anise, Bergamot, Cardamom, Chamomile Roman, Clary sage, Geranium,

    Cedarwood Atlas, Ylang Ylang III, Tea Tree, Sandalwood, Rosemary, Fir, Benzoin, Vetiver, Patchouli, Lavender

    (Bulgaria), Peppermint, Black pepper, Orange, Lemon, Marjoram, Coriander, Cinnamon, Eucalyptus, Pink Grapefruit

    I

    am up for anything with the exception of Rose, Jasmine and Neroli. After I have had some practice, I may invest in

    the good stuff.


  11. #11
    Pheromaniac Sexyredhead's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    I

    have:
    lavender, orange, lemon, lime, grapefruit, bergamot, geranium, vetiver, clary sage, frankincense, myrrh,

    pine, fir, cajeput, black pepper, lemongrass, ylang ylang, sandalwood, rosewood, birch, cedarwood, patchouli, and

    peppermint

    I will be getting some more in the next couple weeks. I\'m just not sure what all I\'m

    going to get yet. Any suggestions?

  12. #12
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    I was looking through

    a list of synthetic Musks, and I couldn\'t believe how many types are available.
    Any ideas which one(s) to

    get?

    MUSK AFRICAN CLEAR
    MUSK AFRICAN GREEN
    MUSK AFRICAN NORTH
    MUSK ALMADINA
    MUSK AMBER
    MUSK ANIMAL
    MUSK

    ARABIAN
    MUSK ATLANTIC
    MUSK BABY OIL
    MUSK BANGLEDESH
    MUSK BLACK
    MUSK BLACK MARKET(BLK IMPORTED)
    MUSK

    BLISK
    MUSK CALI
    MUSK CHINA
    MUSK CIARO
    MUSK CIERRA
    MUSK COTY
    MUSK COTY WILD
    MUSK DARK
    MUSK DE CARTIER
    MUSK

    DUCK
    MUSK EGYPTION
    MUSK EGYPTIAN BABY
    MUSK EGYPTIAN BLACK
    MUSK EGYPTIAN MAISHA\'S SUPERIOR
    MUSK EGYPTIAN

    RED
    MUSK EQYPTIAN BABY
    MUSK ETHIOPIAN BLACKv MUSK EVENING
    MUSK FRENCH
    MUSK GREEN
    MUSK GREEN AFRICAN
    MUSK

    HARLEM
    MUSK HONEY
    MUSK IMMORTAL
    MUSK IMPERIAL
    MUSK INDIAN
    MUSK JAMAICAN
    MUSK JAPANESE
    MUSK JASMIN
    MUSK

    JOVAN
    MUSK JOVAN CLEAR
    MUSK JOVAN MEN
    MUSK JOVAN RED
    MUSK KRISHNA
    MUSK MADINA
    MUSK MOOR
    MUSK MOROCCAN
    MUSK

    NIGERIAN
    MUSK NIGHT
    MUSK NUBIAN
    MUSK ORIENTAL
    MUSK RAIN
    MUSK RED
    MUSK ROSE
    MUSK ROYAL
    MUSK SEPAH
    MUSK

    SPANISH
    MUSK SPRING
    MUSK STRAWBERRY
    MUSK SUDAN
    MUSK SUPER
    MUSK SWEET
    MUSK TROPICAL
    MUSK VANILLA
    MUSK

    WHITE
    MUSK WILD

  13. #13
    Carpal Tunnel Whitehall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    Elana,

    Your list

    of musks reads like the contents of a big, big, box of Crayolas.

  14. #14
    Phero Dude DZorro's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    I was looking through a list of synthetic Musks,

    and I couldn\'t believe how many types are available.
    Any ideas which one(s) to get?

    MUSK AFRICAN CLEAR
    MUSK

    AFRICAN GREEN
    MUSK AFRICAN NORTH
    MUSK ALMADINA
    MUSK AMBER
    MUSK ANIMAL
    MUSK ARABIAN
    MUSK ATLANTIC
    MUSK BABY

    OIL
    MUSK BANGLEDESH
    MUSK BLACK
    MUSK BLACK MARKET(BLK IMPORTED)
    MUSK BLISK
    MUSK CALI
    MUSK CHINA
    MUSK

    CIARO
    MUSK CIERRA
    MUSK COTY
    MUSK COTY WILD
    MUSK DARK
    MUSK DE CARTIER
    MUSK DUCK
    MUSK EGYPTION
    MUSK EGYPTIAN

    BABY
    MUSK EGYPTIAN BLACK
    MUSK EGYPTIAN MAISHA\'S SUPERIOR
    MUSK EGYPTIAN RED
    MUSK EQYPTIAN BABY
    MUSK ETHIOPIAN

    BLACKv MUSK EVENING
    MUSK FRENCH
    MUSK GREEN
    MUSK GREEN AFRICAN
    MUSK HARLEM
    MUSK HONEY
    MUSK IMMORTAL
    MUSK

    IMPERIAL
    MUSK INDIAN
    MUSK JAMAICAN
    MUSK JAPANESE
    MUSK JASMIN
    MUSK JOVAN
    MUSK JOVAN CLEAR
    MUSK JOVAN MEN
    MUSK

    JOVAN RED
    MUSK KRISHNA
    MUSK MADINA
    MUSK MOOR
    MUSK MOROCCAN
    MUSK NIGERIAN
    MUSK NIGHT
    MUSK NUBIAN
    MUSK

    ORIENTAL
    MUSK RAIN
    MUSK RED
    MUSK ROSE
    MUSK ROYAL
    MUSK SEPAH
    MUSK SPANISH
    MUSK SPRING
    MUSK STRAWBERRY
    MUSK

    SUDAN
    MUSK SUPER
    MUSK SWEET
    MUSK TROPICAL
    MUSK VANILLA
    MUSK WHITE
    MUSK WILD


    <hr /></blockquote><font

    class=\"post\">

    Elana, i have musk, Amber, citrus oil, jasmine, Lavender, Rose, Vannille oil and juniper berry

    but i like Amber and jasmine the most.


    DZorro,

  15. #15
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    These mostly aren\'t raw sythetic musks, but are musky synthetic perfumes. I do like straight Almadina musk (if

    it\'s the same stuff, rather than a perfume containing it) as a perfume additive.

    Rather than getting too

    many synthetic musks, I\'m going to recommend that all the ladies get some valerian root EO to use for our musk

    substitute, as it is reasonably cheap.

    Examples of good raw synthetic musk ingredients include muscone,

    galaxolyde, indole, skatole and ambrettolyde. (1, 2 and 4 smell good, but, as a rule, whatever stinks and smells

    \'nasty and gross\' in its raw form is what you want (e.g., valerian). When you add that kind of scent in in

    very small quantities, you get something that makes everything else delightful! Experiencing the truth of this fact,

    that \'disgusting\' is in the end best, is good for our humility, and open-mindedness. (Yes, I\'m always going

    to wax philosophical to captive audiences [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img])

    Perfuming is a

    mysterious world of its own, that regularly yields mystical knowledge to those open to it. This is why there are

    traditions lasting thousands of years. So if you are walking through a field and smell a native plant that is really

    stinky, you might collect a bunch of only the smelliest part, grind it up, and dissolve it in everclear to maximum

    concentration (later letting it sit out to partially evaporate), or even boil it. Master perfumers try these sorts

    of things all the time, to get an edge. Also, there is something magical about using things that come from your

    geographic area.

  16. #16
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    OK. Here is the

    requested formula, using only oils we have mentioned. I hope it\'s not too complex. As it is above, the order

    presented is the order you want to use in creating your perfume. Try to mix after each new oil is added. Numbers

    will always represent drops.

    Turning Oriental

    Base Note:

    2 Patchouli
    3 sandalwood
    1

    myrrh
    1 cinnamon leaf (not bark, which requires experience)
    4 benzoin

    Heart note:

    4 ylang

    ylang
    2 lavender
    1 anise

    Top note:

    8 orange

    Fixative:

    1-2 valerian



    Carrier:

    100 jojoba

    Notice I introduced a new term. A \'fixative\' is something added to

    make the scent last longer on your skin, and to enhance the other smells.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    Oh yes!

    \"Egyptian baby musk\", one of my favorites! If only the extraction process didn\'t produce so much crying.

  18. #18
    Bodhi Satva CptKipling's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    I am writing with an audible English accent, and

    just brushed my teeth last month. See? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] (I hope no one reading this

    is actually from England!)

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">



    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]

    Wasn\'t even a good accent...

  19. #19
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    Oops! I tried to

    make it up to you in your essay thread. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

  20. #20
    Carpal Tunnel Whitehall's Avatar
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    Default Must be a typo!



    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    Examples of good raw synthetic musk ingredients

    include muscone, galaxolyde, indole, skatole and ambrettolyde. (1, 2 and 4 smell good.....)

    <hr

    /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    I read that indole and skatole (#4) smell terrible. I think you meant #5

    smells good, not #4. I would love to get small bottles of pure synthetic musks analogous to our chem set packaging.

    I wonder if IFF would offer them that way? I\'m guessing that the macrocyclics are the best smelling.

  21. #21
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Must be a typo!

    Thanks for

    pointing out the error. OK. You can get two of those products, muscone and ambrettolyde; interesting high quality

    perfumes, and select perfumery supplies; from a place called the Crimson Phoenix. They don\'t sell anything that

    Bruce sells, or has even talked about selling, since they take a perfumery angle, so I don\'t feel bad about

    recommending them. I\'m quite sure you will find it easily. It\'s owned by a very close friend of mine, a great

    guy, who I\'ve been buying from for 9 years. So be sure to say DrSmellThis sent you!

  22. #22
    Pheromaniac Sexyredhead's Avatar
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    Default Re: Must be a typo!

    I used to go to

    the Crimson Pheonix all the time!!! It\'s right down a couple blocks from Portland State, right? I loved

    that place. Really cool guy runs it too.

    Wow, good memories. Thanks.

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

  23. #23
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bridgeville

    So you\'ve a history

    in P-Land? Small world. Did you go to PSU? PM me, if you please. Yes, Gary is indeed a cool guy. He moved his

    operation, and does mostly just personal consults and perfumes on the internet now. Just talked to him tonight.

  24. #24
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: humility

    ...is a very important

    quality for a perfumer. They say it takes 7 years to become a perfumer, and then you go on to either become a good

    one or a bad one. Perfumers throw away 99% of what they create. That is not an exaggeration.

    On the other hand,

    that means you should never get discouraged. And on the third hand, for those of you born in Kentucky or near a

    nuclear plant, [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] you should always strive to be as careful as

    possible with a blend, as you are never more than one step away from flushing it down the toilet.

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

  25. #25
    Carpal Tunnel Whitehall's Avatar
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    Default Humility in Humor



    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    for those of you born ... near a nuclear

    plant

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    Has that an attempt at humor by a liberal?

  26. #26
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    Default Re: humility

    I just got all of my oils

    today. It only took me 4 1/2 minutes to be a great perfumer. My first creation is lovely.

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

    Tonight I am going to make your perfume. I will have to omit a

    few oils, but I am still going to try it.

  27. #27
    Phero Guru Sagacious1420's Avatar
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    Default Re: humility

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    I just got all of my oils today. It only took me 4

    1/2 minutes to be a great perfumer. My first creation is lovely. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]



    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    Yea, right...humility...bragger!

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

  28. #28
    Phero Guru Sagacious1420's Avatar
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    Default Re: fixative

    DST-

    So you\'re

    saying the fixative is the last addition (except for the carrier)?

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] Doh! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] Once

    again, I\'m backassards. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

  29. #29
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    I

    made the first Drsmellthis blend last night. It is Vetiver, ylang-ylang, Clary Sage, and Geranium. I am letting it

    sit overnight. I didn\'t add a carrier to it. I want to use it in my nebulizer.

    I also made a mix of

    Patchouli, geranium, ylang-ylang and cinnamin. I put a drop in with my hair gel and it smells so sexy. It\'s not a

    blend for a \"My little Pony\" loving girlie girl. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]



  30. #30
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: fixative

    </font><blockquote><font

    class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    DST-

    So you\'re saying the fixative is the last addition (except for the

    carrier)? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] Doh!

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] Once again, I\'m backassards.

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    Correct.

    Actually you have fixative at both ends (patchouli, benzoin, etc)

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