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  1. #31
    Pheromaniac Sexyredhead's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    visit-red-300x50PNG
    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    I made the first Drsmellthis blend last

    night. It is Vetiver, ylang-ylang, Clary Sage, and Geranium. I am letting it sit overnight. I didn\'t add a

    carrier to it. I want to use it in my nebulizer.

    I also made a mix of Patchouli, geranium, ylang-ylang and

    cinnamin. I put a drop in with my hair gel and it smells so sexy. It\'s not a blend for a \"My little Pony\"

    loving girlie girl. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]




    <hr /></blockquote><font

    class=\"post\">

    Yeah, that sounds more like something for a psychotic eye-gouger with a penchant for pouring

    cheese down decapitated doll heads! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

    OTOH, that blend does

    sound really good. Need to go get some cinnamon this weekend. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]



    I also made DST\'s mix. Two, in fact. To the first I also added a couple drops of citrus -nol and a drop of

    rosewood to the vetiver, ylang ylang, clary sage, and orange. The second was just the vetiver, ylang ylang, clary

    sage, and orange. I like. Good mix. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] I\'m wearing the second

    mix for the first time today, so we\'ll so how it \"wears\" on me. I wore the first mix Sunday and found the

    rosewood to have a lot of staying power. But I liked the first mix.

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

  2. #32
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Humility in Humor

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    </font><blockquote><font

    class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    for those of you born ... near a nuclear plant

    <hr /></blockquote><font

    class=\"post\">

    Has that an attempt at humor by a liberal?

    <hr /></blockquote><font

    class=\"post\">
    My new sensitive side sure is bowling them over, and winning lots of friends! Gee, I guess I

    should have said solar-challenged plant! That would have been PC. As long, as I\'m in this thread, I\'m a

    smelly, wacky-tobaccy-smokin\', commie/hippie, tree huggin\' liberal boy. Right before I read your post, I was

    listening to that Mick Jagger music (or is it Elton Tom?), doing aerobics with Jane Fonda, and baaaaad-mouthin my

    country. I think I\'ll drop and give myself 50.

  3. #33
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    I like your blend, Elaine. It has all the notes and cinnamon for sweetness/heat. That was a nice touch.

    I hope

    your variation on my first blend turns out. Making do with what you have is the mother of invention.

  4. #34
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cutting Cornerz

    The rosewood was a

    nice touch, SRH, as it goes well with florals, and complimented the vetiver, which is also considered a woody smell.

    Notice how well the ylang and orange go together. That\'s a basic combo. It\'s understandable that no one had

    rose. But rose geranium is often used as a cheaper substitute, with just a touch of things like clary sage, vanilla,

    lemon, lavender, coriander, clove, cinnamon, synthetic rose, and/or vetiver. Ylang, on the other hand, is commonly

    substituted for jasmine. Both are considered \'narcotics\'. A touch of civet, vanilla, tobacco, EW, orange

    and/or indole can make it even closer to jasmine, as can any synthetic jasmine oil.

    So those interested can

    try to make fake rose or jasmine, please, as a basic skill-building and money saving exercise. These are a couple of

    the most basic smells in perfumery, after all. It\'s best to get hold of the real stuff to smell for inspiration,

    like in a store.

    As a bonus, you will end up with a nice perfume or two!

  5. #35
    Phero Guru Sagacious1420's Avatar
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    Default Re: fixative

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    </font><blockquote><font

    class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    DST-

    So you\'re saying the fixative is the last addition (except for the

    carrier)? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] Doh!

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] Once again, I\'m backassards.

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    Correct.

    Actually you have fixative at both ends (patchouli, benzoin, etc)

    <hr /></blockquote><font

    class=\"post\">

    So this is not necessarily a problem, then? Thanks for the suggestion of using the benz as a

    fixative. It seems to help make the top notes more persistent (which was a problem for me) and adds more depth and

    richness to the bottom. I have found that it\'s when the bottom notes kick in that I really get the yummy

    comments. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

  6. #36
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: fixatives

    Perfumers often use

    fixatives at every stage. They often have special fixatives for each note, as well as the overall blend.

  7. #37
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume



    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    Yeah, that sounds more like something for a

    psychotic eye-gouger with a penchant for pouring cheese down decapitated doll heads!

    <hr /></blockquote><font

    class=\"post\">

    What kind of a monster would do something so horrific?

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

    I just put a mix of Bergamot and Coriander oil in my

    nebulizer. It smells fantastic. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

  8. #38
    Phero Guru Sagacious1420's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    Thanks DrSmellThis. Good to know.

  9. #39
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    Bergamot, while we\'re on the topic, is a good fixative for citrus notes.

  10. #40
    Pheromaniac Sexyredhead's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    Bergamot, while we\'re on the topic,

    is a good fixative for citrus notes.

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    Well, it\'s good to know

    I\'ve been doing something right. I almost always add bergamot to my citrus mixes, just because I love the way it

    smells. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

  11. #41
    Phero Pharaoh
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    Default Re: Perfuming Basics

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    OK. Here is the requested formula, using only oils

    we have mentioned. I hope it\'s not too complex. As it is above, the order presented is the order you want to use

    in creating your perfume. Try to mix after each new oil is added. Numbers will always represent drops.

    Turning

    Oriental

    Base Note:

    2 Patchouli
    3 sandalwood
    1 myrrh
    1 cinnamon leaf (not bark, which requires

    experience)
    4 benzoin

    Heart note:

    4 ylang ylang
    2 lavender
    1 anise

    Top note:

    8

    orange

    Fixative:

    1-2 valerian

    Carrier:

    100 jojoba

    Notice I introduced a new term. A

    \'fixative\' is something added to make the scent last longer on your skin, and to enhance the other smells.



    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    WOW! Thanks, doc!

  12. #42
    Phero Pharaoh
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    Default Re: Must be a typo!

    </font><blockquote><font

    class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    Examples

    of good raw synthetic musk ingredients include muscone, galaxolyde, indole, skatole and ambrettolyde. (1, 2 and 4

    smell good.....)

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    I read that indole and skatole (#4) smell

    terrible. I think you meant #5 smells good, not #4. I would love to get small bottles of pure synthetic musks

    analogous to our chem set packaging. I wonder if IFF would offer them that way? I\'m guessing that the

    macrocyclics are the best smelling.

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    Skatole smells like..

    excrement. Valerian, on the other hand... smells like dirty socks.

  13. #43
    Phero Guru Sagacious1420's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    Bergamot, while we\'re on the topic,

    is a good fixative for citrus notes.

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    I\'ve been using Bergamot

    (bergaptene-free) for citrus notes, in lieu of citrus EOs. From what I\'ve read, citrus oils are phototoxic (I

    think that\'s the term), that is they produce a photosensitivity problem when applied to the skin. Am I mistaken?

    Actually, I hope so because I would love to add some citrus notes to my mixes. I\'ve also avoided cinnamon

    because of skin sensitivilty concerns, but I\'d love to use it. Could I use cinnamon leaf, as opposed to cinnamon

    bark w/out such concerns?

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

  14. #44
    Pheromaniac Sexyredhead's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    I apply citrus EO\'s directly to my pasty-white skin and notice no difference,even when I\'m

    outside all day. I do not, however, strip naked, oil myself down, and lay in the sun. (I do that at night.

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] )There are literally tons of things that can make you more

    sensitive to the sun, including ibuprofen, birth control pills, and a bunch of other commonly used products.

  15. #45
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    DST- Can you give us a rule of thumb by percentages or parts how we should go about experimenting with the

    different oils?


    Top Notes: Bergamot, Cardamom, Tea tree, Peppermint, Coriander, Eucalyptus, Pink Grapefruit,

    Lemongrass, Lemon, Orange, Lime, Cajaput, Ginger

    Top/Middle: Clary Sage, Lavender, Rosewood, Geranium

    Middle:

    Anise, Chamomile, Fir, Rosemary, Black Pepper, Marjoram, Cinnamin, Rose, Juniper, Neroli,

    Middle/Base: Ylang

    Ylang,

    Base: Cederwood, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Benzoin, Vetivert, Myrrh, Frankincense, Jasmine

  16. #46
    Phero Guru Sagacious1420's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    I apply citrus EO\'s directly to my

    pasty-white skin

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    Thanks SRH.

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

    </font><blockquote><font

    class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    I do not, however, strip naked, oil myself down, and lay in the sun. (I do

    that at night. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] )

    <hr /></blockquote><font

    class=\"post\">

    What flavor oil? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]


  17. #47
    Phero Guru Sagacious1420's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    Elana-

    This web page may

    help. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

  18. #48
    Bad Motha Holmes's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    Great site, Sag!


    Holmes

  19. #49
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    OMG! This is wonderful! Thanks so much Sag! I am printing it out now.

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

  20. #50
    Phero Guru Sagacious1420's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    No sweat. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

    Have fun!

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

  21. #51
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    Some propose a 3:2:1 rule of thumb, from top to mid to base. I just go by my nose

    Do not use vodka, as that web

    page suggests. Otherwise it looks fine.

  22. #52
    Phero Guru Sagacious1420's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    Some propose a 3:2:1 rule of thumb,

    from top to mid to base. I just go by my nose

    Do not use vodka, as that web page suggests. Otherwise it looks

    fine.

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    Thanks Doc!

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] I can vouch for the vodka advice.

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

  23. #53
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Musks and the Philosophy of Perfume

    A mind is a terrible thing -- Dan Quayle.

  24. #54
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    Default What the hell is this?

    Benzoin resin smells

    amazing. It reminds me of Dr. Pepper soda, but what the hell am I supposed to do with the stuff? I tried to add some

    to an air freshener I was making and it was a nightmare. It stuck to my fingers and clogged up my dropper.
    I still

    have some stuck to my fingers. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

  25. #55
    Phero Enthusiast nonscents's Avatar
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    Default Re: What the hell is this?

    This is a

    quote from the website posted above:
    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />


    To learn

    more about the strength of oils, it is useful to try experiments where you add one drop of a selected essential oil

    to 5 drops carrier oil to get a 20% dilution, smell it, study the aroma, then add another 5 drops of carrier oil to

    get a 10% dilution, smell it and study the aroma again, then repeat as desired. This can help educate you on the

    characteristics and strengths of each essential oil at various dilution ratios.




    <hr /></blockquote><font

    class=\"post\">

    I am pretty clueless when it comes to perfumery. But do they really base their calculations in

    this way? According to my benighted calculations, if I have one drop of EO and five drops of carrier, I have 6 drops

    in total, one of which is EO. So 16.7% is EO. So is not this a 16.7% dilution, and not, as stated, a 20%

    dilution?

    (Isn\'t Oscar real good at this stuff?)

    (Oh, yeah, one other thing. If you need any help,

    I\'ll be glad to anoint you, SRH [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img].)


  26. #56
    Pheromaniac Sexyredhead's Avatar
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    Default Re: What the hell is this?

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />

    (Oh, yeah, one other thing. If you need any help,

    I\'ll be glad to anoint you, SRH [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img].)



    <hr

    /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

  27. #57
    Phero Guru Sagacious1420's Avatar
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    Default Re: What the hell is this?

    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    Benzoin resin smells amazing. It reminds me of Dr.

    Pepper soda, but what the hell am I supposed to do with the stuff? I tried to add some to an air freshener I was

    making and it was a nightmare. It stuck to my fingers and clogged up my dropper.
    I still have some stuck to my

    fingers. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]



    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    Elana-
    Benz is some great stuff, probably one of the best things

    DST has turned me on to. I\'m sure that\'s a big part of why I get the yummy comments about my current cologne

    mix.

    I\'ve tried to work w/ resins, too. Don\'t any more. It\'s a real pain. IIRC, you have to heat some

    resins to get them to dissolve in the carrier. I\'m sure the good Doc can address this much better than me. The

    benz I\'m using now is much easier to use, still pretty thick, but not as much as the resin. Maybe it\'s a

    16.7% dilution. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

    When I\'m mixing, I put some alcohol (vodka is OK for this

    purpose) in a shot glass. (Don\'t use water!) I rinse out the dropper this way. Seems to work well for those

    thick EOs. Just draw some alcohol up into the dropper and squeeze it back into the shot glass. If you\'re really

    concerned about \"cross contamination\" you could use 2 shot glasses so that you can clean it out twice. I,

    personally, don\'t worry about it.

    HTH

  28. #58
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: What the hell is this?

    Benzoin\'s good for your skin, by the way. What do you, WANT, to do with it???

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif[/img]

    A really good thing is to make up the Oriental base note I

    suggested with it, and experiment with slight variations! (hint, hint

    [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img])That\'s enough ideas for now, until someone reports

    back.

    Benzoin is an absolute necessity for perfuming. I get it in large quantities.

    I don\'t ever

    dilute it until mixing or prefixing (defeats the purpose), but keep it in a dropper bottle. It just has to be in

    liquid form. Thick is great.

  29. #59
    Doctor of Scentology DrSmellThis's Avatar
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    Default Re: What the hell is this?

    To dissolve

    resins, there are three techniques pros use:
    1 Use a double boiler
    2 microwave and pyrex glass,
    3 a bit of

    Everclear grain alcohol and time, especially for \'absolutes\' and \'concretes.\'(No excuse not to have it

    on hand! No vodka, except for drinking. Send your vodka to me!)

  30. #60
    Banned User Elana's Avatar
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    Default Re: What the hell is this?



    </font><blockquote><font class=\"small\">Quote:</font><hr />
    To dissolve resins, there are three techniques pros

    use:
    1 Use a double boiler
    2 microwave and pyrex glass,
    3 a bit of Everclear grain alcohol and time,

    especially for \'absolutes\' and \'concretes.\'(No excuse not to have it on hand! No vodka, except for

    drinking. Send your vodka to me!)

    <hr /></blockquote><font class=\"post\">

    This stuff is thicker than

    molasses. If I successfully thin it out and use it in a mix, won\'t it just harden up again as soon as it

    completely cools? The smell is incredible.

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