Ambrette has a long tradition
of use as an attractant, going back many centuries in the perfuming and occult traditions. It is chock full of
analog pheromones, which is why you are getting the reactions you notice. It is one of the most outstanding plant
substances for this purpose.
It is commonly used to flavor coffee in arab countries.
In perfuming, the natural
seed oil is rarely used. Professional perfumers prefer ambrettolide, which is actuallly quite nice as perfume
chemicals go, and pretty close to the EO smell. Ambrettolide is a complex ("macrocyclic") musk note compared to
other artificial musks, and is easier to use than the essential oil. I still prefer the essential oil, of
course.
You shouldn't be suprised to learn that there is a bit of ambrette in Pheros. I wanted to get a
huge, well rounded and layered musk note, and ambrette is great as an organic version of the well known light musk
note (virtually always a chemical scent in perfumes, except for my perfumes), if you can deal with the green
overtones somehow.
It does have similarities to a light musk smell, but with more of a green edge to it. Obviously,
it lacks the strong animal note of animal musks. The nice thing about a light musk note is its freshness.
Some
varieties are a little too funky-green for me. So trying multiple kinds is good with ambrette. The CO2 extracted
version is a bit mellower, and I like it quite a bit, if you want a no brainer to try. However, there are others
that are nice too.
Sounds like you got a good version. Mind if I ask you what you are using?
Ambrette is one
of those oils that gets much better with age, like patchouli. You really want to age it if possible. Buying in
quantity is the easiest way to make that happen.
Ambrette is quite strong, and many would find it best in a
perfume mixed with other things. It is really easy to get too much of it. If you can slather it on, then I guess it
must go well with your chemistry.
Its name indicates it also has an amber note to it, and goes well with
ambergris and other amber scents. It also has a vanilla note, so goes well with other vanilla notes like tonka or
vanilla itself. Obviously, the green note goes with other green notes (like, say, lavender).
It can be used with
sandalwood if it is much weaker in concentration by comparison, like 5:1 (or more) being a place to start
experimenting.
It is considered an exaltant in perfuming, which means it makes other scents better and more vital
when properly used.
It also has a floral note, and could make a powerful attractant mixed with jasmine, neroli
or rose.
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